How a Croatian town uses a natural underwater cellar to age its wine

A unique geological phenomenon is transforming the world of wine in a small, coastal Croatian town.

Ten years ago, during routine maritime cleaning, residents of the picturesque bayside town of Ika, Croatia, accidentally discovered a large plateau about 20 metres deep near the freshwater source.
Inspired by the stories of undersea-aged champagne, they came up with the idea to store local wine there.
In 2014, they placed the first few hundred bottles into the sea. After a year, when they retrieved the first bottles, they were delighted by the wine’s special aroma, prompting them to continue storing new bottles underwater every year.
“In comparison to other wines aged in water, specifically those aged in the sea, here in Ika, we have a source of drinking water that creates a unique microenvironment affecting the wine,” says Kresimir Mikinac, the head of education at the Croatian Sommelier Club.
Though he does not own any of the submerged wines, Mikinac, a local sommelier, annually samples the wine. He notes that while this aging method is relatively new and ongoing research is needed, the results are promising.
“The combination of fresh water and seawater imparts a special uniqueness to the wine, especially considering the different temperatures and mineral content of drinking water compared to seawater. The blending of these waters creates a distinct influence on the wine aged in the spring,” he says.
The news of this innovative aging process spread quickly, leading more winemakers to embrace the underwater cellars.
Today, the annual ritual of retrieving and submerging bottles is a well-established tradition among Croatian winemakers – approximately 15 winemakers now use the method with a range of wines, including whites, reds, and sparkling varieties.
On 3 August, more than 4,500 bottles from various winemakers were pulled out of the sea. The price of these wines varies depending on the producer, with the most expensive bottles reaching up to 300 euros.
“This is our fourth time extracting wine from the sea. I must admit that the results are surprising. I put wine in the sea for the first time at my brother’s suggestion. I was a little sceptical, but I had to admit defeat,” says Josip Voric, a winemaker from the city of Buje in Istrian peninsula.
“Wine in the sea changes completely for the better. The sea stabilises it and prolongs its life. It gives the wine its unique character, allowing it to age for years while remaining consistently good,” he adds.
This year, nearly 5,000 new bottles of wine were submerged into the sea, which will mature for another year and be pulled out for tasting next summer.
Check out the video above to learn more about the innovative wine production technique.